Eger: Uncovering the Hidden Gems of the Hungarian Countryside
Eger, Hungary
While many know Hungarian wine through the famous Tokaj region with its sweet botrytized wine, other regions of the country (22 of them) are starting to get their due. Whether you go for the full-bodied reds of Villány, the crisp white and sparkling wines of Etyek-Buda, the volcanic wines of Somló, or the blended wines of Eger, there is much for wine lovers to discover. Overall, Hungary has a cool continental climate with 70% white wine production and 30% red. Eger, Villány, and Szekszárd are the regions known for red wines with the rest primarily focused on white wine production.
Lets take a look at what we will cover in this article:
Wine Region
Located in northeast Hungary, the Eger region is known for its blended wines. Grapes grown include red varieties Kékfrankos (aka Blaufränkisch), Kadarka, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah as well as white varieties Hárslevelű, Furmint, Olaszrizling (aka Welschriesling), Leányka, Kiralyleányka, and Chardonnay. In attempt to help consumers identify quality wines, the region’s wines are classified as Classic, Superior, and Gran Superior based on vineyard yields and ageing times.
Eger has a long history of winemaking as wine has been produced in the region for over 1000 years. With the introduction of Christianity, French and Italian monks brought high-quality vine growing and winemaking expertise to Eger. The city of Eger is also known for the extensive labyrinth of wine cellars that snake beneath the town – some of which are still being discovered today!
Egri Bikavér, or “Bull’s Blood” is the signature wine of the region and is always a blended wine of multiple varieties with Kékfrankos (aka Blaufränkisch) as a major component. The name “Bull’s Blood” comes with quite the history. It goes back to the 16th century battle between the Hungarians and the Ottomans. After the unexpected and miraculous Hungarian victory, and seeing the red wine stains on their beards, the legend began that the soldiers got their strength from drinking wine mixed bull’s blood and the name stuck. The region has, and is, working hard to shed its reputation as a place of cheap, bulk wine which came about during Communist rule when inexpensive, high-yield grapes became the focus.
ACCOMMODATION:
We only took a day trip so we don’t have any personal recommendations for where to stay in Eger, but you can check out all options here to find what works bets for you.
SITES:
Castle of Eger:
On top of the hill stands Eger castle, a medieval fortress dating back to 13th century. It is mostly known for its importance in 1552 defense against the Ottoman army.
Today you can climb up the hill to see several exhibitions in the castle, look around the dungeons and have a splendid view of the town. There are different types of tickets for various parts of the castle but you can also purchase an all-in combined ticket if you want to get the most out of your visit. The prices start from 1400 HUF (5 EUR) for adults but there are also some discounts for seniors and students. Just keep in mind that all exhibitions are closed on Mondays.
Dobo Square:
This is the main square in Eger located right in the middle of the town’s historical part. Once you reach the square, you can instantly see that this is the most lively spot in the town.
The square itself is a beautiful representation of Mediterranean and Baroque architecture for any art lovers out there. You can sit and relax on one of the benches scattered all around the square, admire the fountain show, lots of monuments dedicated to historically important figures such as Saint István or Mór Jókai.
Eger Basilica:
Also known as the Cathedral Basilica of St. John the Apostle is the third largest church in Hungary. It is a neo-classical style building built in 19th century.
The most impressive part is probably the entrance with huge columns and guarded by two saints on each side. There is a lovely park nearby in which you can relax and admire the building from the side. Or you can head inside and appreciate its beautiful interior that was made in order to awe people.
Valley of Beautiful Women:
This valley, also called Szepasszonyvolgy in Hungarian, is one of the major attractions in the town. Apart from history and thermal baths, Eger being so well known for its wine this is a must do. The valley has around 200 wine cellar lined one after another which is an impressive sight to see.
Eger thermal bath:
On the outskirts of the town, you can find outdoor water attraction that will appeal to every age group. There are seven pools in total, three of them thermal water pools with a nice amount of natural radon in them. Unfortunately we only went for the day and decided to come back for the baths another time, so I can’t give any personal experience on these particular baths, however I have heard good things and would like to visit them in the future.
What to Eat in Eger:
Macok Bisztró:
A friend recommended Macok bistro and I am so grateful that she did! They have a changing menu based on the season so there’s always a chance to try something new. We were honestly impressed with every single order. My partner ordered the strawberry lemonade and he thought it was one of the best he has had. I ordered a Eger Cottage Rosé. We split the white bean soup as an appetizer and it was fantastic! My partner ordered the Chicken breast supreme, with roasted ‘kápia’ paprika, thick egg flavored noodles and dollops of sour cream. I ordered a mushroom risotto. Everything was beautifully presented. It was like eating a delicious piece of art. It cost around €30 for all of this so I would highly recommend checking out Macok bisztro!
Kürtóskalács:
The small street sweet shop, sells one of hungry‘s most famous desserts: Kürtóskalács, or for those non-Hungarian speakers, the chimney cake! The traditional flavor is a cinnamon, but they offer a wide variety including vanilla, caramel almond, hazelnut, coconut, and. Any more. If that isn’t enough to cure your sweet tooth, the addition of Nutella, or even “unicorn” colored cakes are also available.
Borz Bar:
We ventured into the valley of the beautiful women which is essentially streets lined with winery’s. Each winery was unique and had its own style. All of them have a small outdoor seating area, inside seating area, and wine cellars. If you’re looking for the version of winery barhopping you could not find a better place! We chose Borz Bar and ordered the famous Egri Bikavér or “bulls blood, and a delicious Riesling (Olaszrizling). Both were absolutely spectacular.
If you have the chance to visit Hungary’s wine regions and you’re a fan of red, I hope you consider visiting Eger. If perhaps you are looking for a sweeter wine experience but you prefer the whites, (or you’re like me and love them both) please check out my review on the famous Tokaj region as well!
Happy Travels xx
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